That's how Coq au Vin is made!
The head chef, Reinhold Wrobel, doesn’t like being in the spotlight, according to the management of Hotel Schönegg, even though the Coq au Vin recipe originates from him. However, his deputy, Jana Minga, can prepare it just as well, if not better. And she’s certainly not shy. So, who’s going to cook the dish for the article? And then pose with it for the photo? On the evening before the visit to the hotel kitchen, this remains unclear.
The next morning, the sun rises over Zermatt just after 7 a.m. The winter sky is cloudless, and the eastern side of the Matterhorn glows majestically. In the kitchen of the four-star superior hotel, located in the basement, the lights are already on. Both Wrobel and Minga are present. She has already prepared the ingredients for the house specialty, and he has a note with the exact recipe ready.
First question: What wine is used for the Coq au Vin? "We use a Valais wine, of course, our house wine – a Pinot Noir from the hotel owner's vineyard," says Jana Minga. "You shouldn't cook with wine you wouldn’t drink yourself," Reinhold Wrobel adds. Pinot is generally a very good choice, but it doesn’t have to be an expensive Burgundy, even though the dish originates from that region.
When reading the recipe, one notices that Wrobel's Coq au Vin doesn’t include bacon or mushrooms. Why? "Our version is modern and minimalistic," Wrobel explains. Additionally, the absence of bacon caters to hotel guests who avoid pork or don’t like the accompanying smoky flavor. "Shall we start?" Minga asks.
Wings get added to the staff meal
First, the chicken is marinated, "it should be for at least seven days." Though the chef admits it sometimes ends up being just four, as they need 50 portions each week. At Schönegg, they use corn-fed chicken thighs from the Alpstein region of Appenzell, as they are particularly plump. The fillets are served grilled because they tend to become too tough when stewed. And the wings? "They go into the staff meal."
The fact that female chickens are used for Coq au Vin, instead of a traditional male rooster weighing up to three kilos, is because the more strongly flavored roosters are hard to come by.
In addition to wine, the marinade includes diced onions, carrots, celeriac, and leeks; along with a few peppercorns, juniper berries, and bay leaves. After seven days, the now slightly purple chicken is separated from the by now cloudy liquid using a sieve.
Jana Minga has already prepared the mise en place for the Coq au Vin. The wine from the marinade is first brought to a boil. Soon, the proteins from the meat form a whitish foam on top. This is roughly skimmed off with a slotted spoon before the sauce is passed through a fine mesh sieve. Meanwhile, the split chicken leg is salted, seared in sunflower oil – sizzling in the Lyon-style pan – and set aside. Jana Minga does this with ease, while Reinhold Wrobel watches the scene from the background.
The same pan is reused for the sauce: "Otherwise, all the flavors would be lost," says Minga. She sears the vegetables (without spices) at a high temperature, adds a bit of tomato paste, and deglazes with the red wine marinade. Then, she adds broth – "chicken stock is, of course, best here." The kitchen now smells wonderful. "If you want mushrooms in the dish, you can simply add them at this stage." As for bacon, Minga suggests frying it separately and adding it later.
After the vegetables are removed, the sauce is reduced, as it’s called in professional terminology, and then thickened with a bit of cornstarch dissolved in water. Cornstarch? "We've largely banished wheat flour from our kitchen, partly because of the gluten intolerances of some guests."
And what happens to the vegetables from the marinade? "At home, you can simply add them to the Coq au Vin," explains Reinhold Wrobel. "Here, they go into the staff Bolognese," Jana Minga adds with a smile. The 33-year-old has been working under Wrobel (51) for nearly six years, and Wrobel has been cooking here for over 20 years. How does she address him? "You, Chef!" During the conversation, he refers to her as "my left hand" – a compliment, as Wrobel is left-handed.
Creamy sauce, tender meat
Anyone ordering Coq au Vin at Schönegg will notice two things: The sauce on the plate is wonderfully creamy, and the meat is tender without falling apart. What’s the secret? "We prepare it sous vide for several hours," says Wrobel. This might not be good news for readers, as few have the necessary equipment at home. But the head chef clarifies: "You can do it at home without professional tools, using a zip-lock bag."
At Schönegg, the chicken, along with the sauce, is vacuum-sealed. It is placed in a temperature-controlled water bath or steamer at a constant 69 degrees for seven or eight hours. "We do this overnight," says Jana Minga.
The final steps are the same both at home and in the hotel kitchen: The chicken legs are briefly browned under the oven's top heat. Meanwhile, the sauce is reduced again because the chicken juice has diluted it. In Zermatt, the dish is served with mashed potatoes made from the old Ratte variety and braised root vegetables. "Baguette, rice, or pasta are also suitable side dishes. It's up to everyone’s preference," says Wrobel.
And who will pose with the dish? The head chef or the deputy? Suddenly, Jana Minga no longer wants to be in the picture, and Reinhold Wrobel is also reluctant. But together, they make a great team.
